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Kinks Share your tips and techniques here. The old timers used to refer this as KINKs. Thanks for sharing.


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  #11  
Old 04-16-2007, 07:38 PM
tintailor tintailor is offline
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in the UK when preparing the square to round for the circular collar, the square to round is the male, if the dia is either equal or larger than either the sides then you can swage approx 3/8" (assuming you have allowed for this on the body pattern) if the fitting is off set you might have to "block" (shrink) in the edge that has increased, if the diameter is smaller the you might have to stretch the 3/8" out place the collar OVER the 3/8" spot weld then you may with care swage both the collar and the square to round body as one, it really makes a nice job
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  #12  
Old 04-01-2008, 10:33 PM
fogcrawler fogcrawler is offline
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Dan,
Here's the way I was taught in my vast 6 mo. working in the trade so far...
When laying out my pattern, I leave about 1/4" extra material past my circle segment pin pricks for attaching the collar with a spot welder.
After both halves of my body are assembled, I crimp that extra 1 /4" material in an old pexto hand crank machine... Taking note if I need to change the angle of the metal by raising or lowering the body as the piece is being turned.
I then take my collar and swedge (flare) it out a bit on the edge that is going to nestle over the body on another old pexto machine we have, (Don't know the proper name for the pair of dies on that machine)
Most of the time, I need to spend a few minutes fine tuning the fit on a stake... Don't know the exact name of it, but it's longer and narrower than beak horns I've seen pictures of on the internet.
When the fit is tuned, I spot weld the collar on to the body, making sure the the bottom edge of the collar meets the twelve prick points.
Don't know if that's a good answer for yaa, but that's how it is done where I work.
To date, I've only laid out and fabricated six sqaure to rounds... two were very easy and symetrical, the others required patterns for each half as they were centerline one-way and centerline no-way...
The last one was really interesting, because the round was outside of the square (Rectangle actually) on two sides...
I fought my very first one a bit, trying to getting a good fit on the collar attachment, but they keep getting better and easier each time and the boss seems happy as my speed seems to pick up more with each fitting.
BTW- I also did a practice one on the first centerline no-way square to round I did and I brought it home with me. I think my camera is out in my truck... I'll see if I can figure out how to get a picture of it for you...
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  #13  
Old 04-01-2008, 11:28 PM
fogcrawler fogcrawler is offline
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OK...
Took me longer than ten minutes to fiddle with the camera, so I couldn't edit my first post.
But let's see if this picture thing works for me...
If it works, you'll see a red arrow where I missed the mark on my pin prick and didn't set the collar low enogh...
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  #14  
Old 04-04-2008, 01:20 AM
legacy legacy is offline
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Wow, still looks nice. Nicer than anyone in my shop could do. Very clean and neat
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  #15  
Old 03-31-2009, 07:02 PM
bkm bkm is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bordontn
The way we used to do it........We built fittings for supply houses
Boots, sq x rnds, reducers. We used electric burring and turning machines.
We ran them thru by hand..Burred the body, grooved the collar,
placed one rivet in collar, snapped it on burred edge, pulled it
together and added 2nd rivet
bordontn
Thanks bordontn... I really like the burr idea and the sketch explains the process well. Can I ask how you finish off the other end of the sq-to-rnd?
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  #16  
Old 04-02-2009, 01:56 PM
bordontn2 bordontn2 is offline
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bkm........we left it plain..corners notched an inch..You can hand turn a flange/ bend drives on it / use s locks to connect
bordontn2
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  #17  
Old 12-20-2009, 02:18 PM
ibintinknockin ibintinknockin is offline
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i would burr a 5/16 edge on the round collar at about the same angle as the transition, then i would make a quick jig out of 11 gauge. 2 plates 2'' bigger than each square and round outside dimensions with a 1/2'' hole dead center of each plate, (you can spot weld metal or make marks on the jig metal to keep everything aligned) send a threaded rod thru the hole and nut and washer the ends and crank it down to where you need it (i am gonna say it is a given to trim to suit or even layout the transition body a little smaller to get everything to fit depending on the size/shape/airflow direction of the fitting).... ok, you ready for this? DUCT TAPE THE SH!T OUT OF THE CONNECTION.... then remove the jig and carve out 1'' section of the duct tape at opposite sides, spot weld, then do that at the other opposite ends so you wind up with spot welds at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o'clock. after that take off the rest of the tape and get everything closer on the stake, spot the rest of the collar, a little silicone on the inside, and you are done. you can get creative on the jig with different materials depending on the size of the fitting. angle iron, plywood. or if the s to r is offset.

...... i also like to spray cold galvo compound where i spot welded
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  #18  
Old 07-13-2010, 10:06 AM
jcmechanical jcmechanical is offline
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Default collar to sq to rd

I use the elbow mechine sq to rd rolled down collar roller up....with practice works real well looks good when it is finished. the bigger fittings the same except i tack weld them on the in side...our guys can be hard on fittings if you know what I mean......
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  #19  
Old 08-01-2010, 03:14 PM
tinnercharlie tinnercharlie is offline
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That's the way I do it, with a Niagra rotary Machine with a 3/16 groove die.
It takes practice and hold the fitting perpendicular while running the machine.
if they are over 20" in diameter I take them to the welding Table and zap them with the
Mig, for safeteys sake. Thats our go-to gore seam.
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  #20  
Old 08-01-2010, 05:44 PM
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Rob Rob is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcmechanical View Post
I use the elbow mechine sq to rd rolled down collar roller up....with practice works real well looks good when it is finished.
This is the method I use as well.
The problem is I'm working with an elbow edger that is older than all of us combined!
After many hours of practice, the elbow edger and I finally get along.
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