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  #21  
Old 04-29-2013, 12:43 PM
Bestfish Bestfish is offline
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Ok, Gotcha. I guess thats why I don't do residential work any more. Here I would of used a double rolled standing seam roof. But the counter flashing is what really gets me. Here in South La. that would leak bou'cou'. Its an imitation step flashing look alike. But evidently not knowing how a step flashing works. Not even the bottom edge is hugged for looks. Not to mention, never in my life have I used caulk in a motar joint. I always replace with mortar.

Maybe I shouldn't of posted this, but it urks me bou'cou' when I see a waste of good copper and time and not do it correctly.
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  #22  
Old 04-29-2013, 05:25 PM
cactassdupree cactassdupree is offline
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Wink mortar slides out??

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kurtis View Post
bendrulz, I agree with dupree, the goop on those joints is pretty sloppy.

Sometimes we re-point with mortar and sometimes we use sealant depending on the project.

I always like to use an NP1, geocel, or other commercial sealant: proper backer-rod, back-stop on the flashing, strike the joint flush, and a sand treatment on the surface so it blends with the masonry joints.

IMO a well-done sealant joint on counter flashing is better than re-pointing because unless you knurl the surface of the copper, the mortar can slide out...
I have never had mortar slide out if a joint (reminds me , be back in a second). Back to topic at hand. I take an ole brush or squirt bottle and wet the joint down so the brick doesn't pull (hold on a minute) the water out of the mortar and it helps the mortar to stick to the brick. When a roofer lays a cement or terracotta (sp) tile he should have it soaked. I've seen inspectors that will make guys pull the tile up if they are setting them dry. Bosses love that!! I was taught to do it with mortar because if you caulk a joint and the water just happens to get in it can't get out. Then you create a pool and that water is going inside something. Now we all know cement products are not water tight right? That's why there should be a return on the back edge in the wall of the counter flashing. I take my counter 1 1/4" into the wall with a 5/16th return on the back. I HATE cutting rigglet..(sp) dupree
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  #23  
Old 06-28-2013, 05:52 AM
roofermarc roofermarc is offline
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This look's okay considering today's economy and what people are willing to pay. You have to work quick and knock out the job sometimes. I would have used bronze caulk on the counter and the one seam down the middle in the front has to go, this should've been two seams. Also to get any width you would have to force the different sweep on the sides, all this isn't easy without many yrs. experience. Watch out from who teaches you things as bad habits are hard to quit.
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  #24  
Old 07-01-2013, 01:23 PM
Kurtis Kurtis is offline
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wrong window
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  #25  
Old 09-18-2013, 12:51 AM
MattM MattM is offline
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I'm surprised to see the old 12" planks in your photos. OSHA would kick our ass for using them nowadays. I'm no fan of OSHA's draconian rules, but how do you get around their rules? We kept sectional scaffolding around for these jobs.
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  #26  
Old 01-19-2014, 02:38 PM
matt140 matt140 is offline
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Most of the time I don't follow the brick joints and use a grinder and would follow the curve. Code here in BC is 3/4 into mortar or brick. On regular roofs I like it better cause u can follow the roof slope. Following the brick gives different size pieces. Curved u could run through a flanger. Just my 2 cents. Anyone ever use crack Crete?
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