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Kinks Share your tips and techniques here. The old timers used to refer this as KINKs. Thanks for sharing.


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  #1  
Old 10-18-2006, 10:39 AM
legacy legacy is offline
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Default Proper connection for collar to body of a square to round

I know how we do it in our shop, but I have seen a nicer way that is used by others.

We normally put the body togeth, roll the collar, bead the collar about 3/4" from one raw edge, dove tail the collar, and slip it inside the the body. The bead hits the top edge of the body and acts a s a stop and also provides a good edge to caulk against. We then Norlok or spot weld the collar to the body.

What I have seen very often in the field is an offset out rolled at the bottom edge of the collar. This fits OVER the edge of the S to R body. Couple of questions regarding this method: Is it tough to get the collar to fit over the edge of the body? What tooling does one used with a Pexto (RW) 0617 to acheaive this offset edge? Does the body have to be undersized to allow for growth at the collar? Does this work when the collar is larger than the body?

Anyone have any other good means of fastening the collar to the body

Thanks
Dan
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Old 10-18-2006, 08:20 PM
LeadHead LeadHead is offline
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I don't know if you layout by hand or not. On the plasma table, I add a 1/2" lap on the top of the sq to rnd body, so that when it cuts the break marks on the body it essentially dovetails the top of the body. I roll the collar but I don't bead or spot it yet because it is more compliant that way. I spot weld one end of the collar to the body and work my way around spot welding every 2 inches or so lapping the end so it is nice and snug. My bead is the last thing I do(other than caulk).
I'm going to try to set one up tomorrow with the dovetail and bead on the collar like you do though. I might like that setup for certain applications.
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Old 10-18-2006, 09:31 PM
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I generally make the collars for the sq. to round 3 1/2" in width, with a 2" bead. I put the flange on the 1 1/2" side, and attach it to the body as described by LeadHead. I also use 24ga. so they don't go out of round, even if the sq. to round is 26ga or 28ga.

Hope this helps.
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Old 10-19-2006, 03:09 PM
legacy legacy is offline
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I will try to add the 1/2" flange to the body and see how that works. when you say that the last thing you do is the bead, are you rolling the bead at the collar to body connection? I am trying to picture how one would hold the whole fitting while rolling the bead (by hand).

Dan
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Old 10-19-2006, 04:37 PM
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Stickman Stickman is offline
 
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I think you can use a set of elbow edging rolls to form the connection you are talking about....the same set of rolls you use to connect the gores of a elbow together. I myself use the collar with a bead & tabs and Norlok it to the body. To this day, I still have never seen anyone actually have these rolls and use them....and I am wondering how to use them too
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Old 10-19-2006, 04:59 PM
tanner tanner is offline
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I wanted an elboow edge die set but it was not available for our machine. We use a small bead die which gives us an edge like the elbow edge die set would. We add 3/32 of an inch to both the body and collar for allowances. We run the body so the edge ends up pointing out ward then after we roll the collar and use vise grips to hold it together. then we roll the collar with the edge going inside. After that we remove the vise grips and we use a stainless steel band with a quick release style screw to squeeze the collar tight to the body. This allows us to make the collar inside or outside diameter, The completed piece will often look like it just came from the factory.
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Old 10-19-2006, 05:45 PM
LeadHead LeadHead is offline
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Legacy, what I meant by beading the collar last was that I actually hold the square to round on its side and bead the collar about 1 inch from the opening on a 3 inch collar. This gives our guys in the field about 2 inches behind the bead to band their flex duct. The bead helps keep the flex from sliding off. It is really easy to bead the fitting on its side because I've coupled a motor to my roll form. It's not as "trick" as Stickman's but it works well. It frees up both hands for holding your work while you use the foot pedal to turn it on and off.
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Old 10-22-2006, 06:12 AM
tinman101 tinman101 is offline
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I usually turn up a 1/2" lip on the square to round, then bead the collar 1/2".Lightly crimp the 1/2" on the collar and insert into the square to round.Dress out the crimping with a ball hammer to tighten the collar connection.Once fit up you can either pop rivet or spotweld it on.Then you can seal it with whatever you use.You can also bead and crimp the other end for connections.
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Old 10-22-2006, 07:16 PM
bordontn bordontn is offline
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The way we used to do it........We built fittings for supply houses
Boots, sq x rnds, reducers. We used electric burring and turning machines.
We ran them thru by hand..Burred the body, grooved the collar,
placed one rivet in collar, snapped it on burred edge, pulled it
together and added 2nd rivet
bordontn
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collar_211.jpg  
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Old 10-22-2006, 08:27 PM
legacy legacy is offline
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Bordontn-

I like it, great picture. I get the burr, but can you elaborate on the 'turned' edge of the collar. What is the profile, is it a bead right at the edge that acts as a female receiver for the burred (male) edge?

Dan
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