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Old 09-18-2015, 09:42 AM
njsignman njsignman is offline
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Default Niagra 10' shear not coming down all the way

Hi all,

Yes, another forum newb starting off with a question. I have a feeling that's how these things usually start because I did a web search, etc.

I make and install illuminated signs and have a 10' Niagra power shear. The problem is that the blade barely comes down enough to cut a full 10' long sheet of metal. It's been this way for years and I've put up with it but am tired of it. We're moving to a new shop in December so I figured now is the time to get this taken care of.

I do have the manual but other than mentioning how to check the gap (it cuts fine) I see no mention of how to adjust the up/down travel. Maybe I'm just missing the info in the manual but...

We cut aluminum almost exclusively (98% I'd say up to .100" thick though mostly .040-.063) and the cuts are fine. It's just that I have to line up 10' sheets carefully to be just inside the right end of the blade so I can cut them.

On someones suggestion I did recently re-level the machine left-right but that made no difference. The manual did mention that front back is more important but it's just about dead on that way. I have not gotten out a feeler gauge to check the clearances but as I mentioned above, it cuts nicely without any issues. The only real problem is the up/down travel.

With moving expenses coming up I'm trying to avoid calling in someone (assuming I can find someone locally) go work on it. The nearest place I can find is in NYC and I can just imagine that invoice because we are 2 1/2 hours away.

I'm hoping for some suggestions please and thank you.

Rocco
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Old 09-22-2015, 05:47 AM
john_galt john_galt is offline
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Hi signman, what's the model number on your shear, some hydraulic shears have stoke control so you can adjust the stroke.
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Old 09-22-2015, 01:11 PM
RPMachine RPMachine is offline
 
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Default Niagara Shear Blade

Hi Rocco,

The Niagara shears were designed with a short stroke, and that limits the error on the blade height. On most Niagara shears, the top and bottom blades need to be shimmed after sharpening. The bottom would be shimmed level with the bed, and the top needs to be shimmed so that the blade and shims combined are the original blade height. If you had 1" by 3" blades, the top blade and shims needs to be exactly 3".

A secondary problem is the bearings in the connecting rods could be worn. If there is any gap under the eccentric bearing at rest, then the head won't get pulled down far enough to complete the cut. If that is the case, send me some pictures and maybe we can figure something out.

Good luck!
Randy
randy@rpmach.com
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Old 09-28-2015, 09:18 AM
njsignman njsignman is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by john_galt View Post
Hi signman, what's the model number on your shear, some hydraulic shears have stoke control so you can adjust the stroke.
Sorry for not getting back here sooner. I was away for a couple of days.

The model # is 410-B, serial # 50420.

I thought that there might be an adjustment but really didn't want to pull it apart without some input.

Thanks
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Old 09-29-2015, 07:20 AM
njsignman njsignman is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RPMachine View Post
Hi Rocco,

The Niagara shears were designed with a short stroke, and that limits the error on the blade height. On most Niagara shears, the top and bottom blades need to be shimmed after sharpening. The bottom would be shimmed level with the bed, and the top needs to be shimmed so that the blade and shims combined are the original blade height. If you had 1" by 3" blades, the top blade and shims needs to be exactly 3".

A secondary problem is the bearings in the connecting rods could be worn. If there is any gap under the eccentric bearing at rest, then the head won't get pulled down far enough to complete the cut. If that is the case, send me some pictures and maybe we can figure something out.

Good luck!
Randy
randy@rpmach.com
Thanks Randy,

To my knowledge the blades have never been sharpened, at least not while we had the shear. My dad bought this at an auction about 21-22 years ago, and it's been like this since it was purchased. We've lived with it (we don't do large production of signs) but it's been bugging me for a while.

I'll have to find the time to go through the manual again and see about the connecting rods, etc and see if I can spot an issue. Also, I'll see if the top blade needs to be re-shimmed. The bottom one is already flush with the bed.

Thanks
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