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  #11  
Old 03-15-2013, 02:35 AM
device device is offline
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Smile hmm

i think you got it all wrong bendrulz.....
i dont think he was being insulting.. you lead into the thread by looking for pointers..
and as from looking at the pictures you got some..
lets tone it back.. no one was trying to be insulting..
i dont think it was meant that was at all .
i dont know how i would go about saldering a corner miter on gutter 30 feet in the air..by the way
cheers!
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  #12  
Old 03-16-2013, 04:03 PM
Kurtis Kurtis is offline
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bendrulz, I agree with dupree, the goop on those joints is pretty sloppy.

Sometimes we re-point with mortar and sometimes we use sealant depending on the project.

I always like to use an NP1, geocel, or other commercial sealant: proper backer-rod, back-stop on the flashing, strike the joint flush, and a sand treatment on the surface so it blends with the masonry joints.

IMO a well-done sealant joint on counter flashing is better than re-pointing because unless you knurl the surface of the copper, the mortar can slide out...
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  #13  
Old 03-17-2013, 10:50 AM
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Stickman Stickman is offline
 
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Nice work ! Can I ask what the pcs. of copper are that are on the standing seams in the 5th picture ?
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  #14  
Old 03-18-2013, 09:49 AM
Tucko Tucko is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bendarulz View Post
No it is recessed into the mortar.Its just when the mortar has been cut out .5 inches wide originally other than putting more mortar back in which they usually dont want to pay for you have to use something.And if you notice there are no exposed fasteners on the counterflashing so how would you think it is holding so tight?I dont half ass the cut it and step and nail and caulk it.I dont mean to come off as pissy but I have been doing this for awhile and to make assumptions that I dont know what the standard size panel for a flat lock panel or properly installed counter flashing is almost more insulting than anything.Sorry to waste anyones time but I dont need info that any first year sheet metal worker should know.Have a nice day!
I'm wondering if a different color caulking would have looked a little better. Why didn't you caulk in the vertical?
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  #15  
Old 03-18-2013, 06:35 PM
cactassdupree cactassdupree is offline
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Wink pissy???

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bendarulz View Post
No it is recessed into the mortar.Its just when the mortar has been cut out .5 inches wide originally other than putting more mortar back in which they usually dont want to pay for you have to use something.And if you notice there are no exposed fasteners on the counterflashing so how would you think it is holding so tight?I dont half ass the cut it and step and nail and caulk it.I dont mean to come off as pissy but I have been doing this for awhile and to make assumptions that I dont know what the standard size panel for a flat lock panel or properly installed counter flashing is almost more insulting than anything.Sorry to waste anyones time but I dont need info that any first year sheet metal worker should know.Have a nice day!
First of all I said the work looked "Pretty Good" After looking closer I see that you have made the counter out of one piece. Did you bend a return on the counter that goes in the "Mortar joint? Maybe I'd have liked it better if you use a Gray caulk. The white just stuck out like a sore thumb. If I were the owner you would be changing that. I'm not replying to piss you off. You are the one who asked and it's just my opinon. I'm the first to admit I make my share of mistakes. I was told once that anyone who doesn't make them Is the guy that doesn't do Anything. Sorry if what i wrote offended you. Best wishes and Happy Tin knocking. dupree
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  #16  
Old 04-26-2013, 09:55 PM
Bestfish Bestfish is offline
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This is my first post fellas, so it will be as a question. Would y'all consider this standard, or normal quality work?

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  #17  
Old 04-26-2013, 09:58 PM
Bestfish Bestfish is offline
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I guess I should also say, I have been around Sheet Metal work all my life, since I was born you could say. I used to do pretty much copper work.
I was wondering what kinda seam is used on that particular roof? and what are those clips on outside of the seams for?
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  #18  
Old 04-27-2013, 07:06 AM
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Bud Bud is offline
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BestFish, welcome to the forums.

Great question on the clips. I didn't notice them until you mentioned them.
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  #19  
Old 04-27-2013, 10:20 AM
Bestfish Bestfish is offline
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Thanks for the welcome. I guess I should say what clips look like to me, I might be wrong. I have never seen this technique' before. Looks like he used roof clips to fold over a standing seem look alike, and put a cap and roll clip over cap and trim off excess to hold cap on.
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  #20  
Old 04-29-2013, 08:24 AM
DennisM DennisM is offline
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bestfish

On a scale of 1-10 I would give this a 5. I've seen worse and better.
So this is kind of average for whatever reason.

I've seen this technique before. Looks like a pan with a 1" leg up on each side, crimped with downspout crimpers to make the curve, and a separate cap hammered over the legs and held in place with long clips.
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