The New Home for the Sheet Metal Industry Forums
SheetMetalTalk
 


Go Back   Sheetmetal Talk > Sheet Metal Forums > Metal Roofs

Metal Roofs
Discussion forum and information on Metal Roofs.


Share This Forum!  
 
 
     

 

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 01-03-2012, 11:05 AM
ifishalot7 ifishalot7 is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 27
Thanks: 18
Thanked 20 Times in 12 Posts
Default Bay window hip roof question.

I have two copper bay roofs to do for a customer.They will be standing seam just like the link below.I done a few before but I always used a t shaped ridge cap locked over upturned edges at the diagonal hip to finish out where the panels meet.Is it possible to do these with the double lock standing seam at the hips the way this guy does without having to solder the vertical seams?The topside of the seam would be easy enough but it would be hard to get my iron into the tight v area on the bottom.Any tips ,tricks or sugestions are greatly appreciated. http://www.customsheetmetalroofing.c...m_hip_roof.htm
Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to ifishalot7 For This Useful Post:
device (01-06-2012)
  #2  
Old 01-03-2012, 01:45 PM
cactassdupree cactassdupree is offline
Professional Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Sunny Florida
Posts: 602
Thanks: 161
Thanked 58 Times in 49 Posts
Wink Seams

Quote:
Originally Posted by ifishalot7 View Post
I have two copper bay roofs to do for a customer.They will be standing seam just like the link below.I done a few before but I always used a t shaped ridge cap locked over upturned edges at the diagonal hip to finish out where the panels meet.Is it possible to do these with the double lock standing seam at the hips the way this guy does without having to solder the vertical seams?The topside of the seam would be easy enough but it would be hard to get my iron into the tight v area on the bottom.Any tips ,tricks or sugestions are greatly appreciated. http://www.customsheetmetalroofing.c...m_hip_roof.htm
First of all thanks for the pics of the guy installing. I take and envelope the seams and if you turn to the up side it gives you more room to solder. The joint down the hip I've taken an old Iron and forged it so it is pointier. I don't like to stand or neal on the copper. Sometimes it is unavoidable but as little as necessary. He could have put a few planks down below and built a scaffold or used a step latter. I like the fact that he put down the rosin paper (that's what we called it). Today they have a nice product that you peal and stick to the roof. It comes with different textures so you can lay metal or tile ect. Good luck on your Bay Windows. dupree
Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to cactassdupree For This Useful Post:
ifishalot7 (01-03-2012)
  #3  
Old 01-04-2012, 06:44 AM
roofermarc roofermarc is offline
Professional Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: St.Tammany Parish
Posts: 449
Thanks: 36
Thanked 82 Times in 71 Posts
Default Red rosin

I couldn't make out how the hip seams were done, but they stopped us from using red rosin ten yrs. ago under copper. Some brilliant engineer at Berridge manufacturing I think. I wouldn't do any soldering unless it was flat. That architects manual they go by says you can caulk, so you won't get in any trouble.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 01-04-2012, 07:42 AM
ifishalot7 ifishalot7 is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 27
Thanks: 18
Thanked 20 Times in 12 Posts
Default

Thanks.I found an old book that belonged to my Grand Dad on copper practices by the American Brass Company that has a plate on bay windows.Allthough it does,nt go into detail it shows the standing seam flattened and folded into the standing seam on the hip.I don,t like the look of the seam folded down like that but apparently that is or was the correct way to do it.After thinking about it I might blind solder the panels on the backside before installing.Here is a couple of pictures the book.
Attached Thumbnails
017.jpg   018.jpg   020.jpg  
Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to ifishalot7 For This Useful Post:
device (01-06-2012)
  #5  
Old 01-04-2012, 07:29 PM
smwlocal24 smwlocal24 is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Dayton, OH
Posts: 76
Thanks: 2
Thanked 30 Times in 17 Posts
Default

Soldering the standing seams isn't necessary and risks accidentally letting acid and solder run down onto the panels. As far as the hip detail goes, if possible make the panels work out such that a standing seam falls where the hips are. Here are some pics of some that I have done. For straight panels you can bend male and female standing seams, but for curved panels you will have to do simple male standing seams on each side and cover with a batten. I caulk between the standing seams during installation and use a high quality underlayment to prevent any problems with leaks.
Attached Thumbnails
IMAG0191.jpg   4-74092307-2052785-800.jpg   IMAG0075.jpg   IMAG0094.jpg   IMAG0093.jpg  


Last edited by smwlocal24; 01-04-2012 at 07:43 PM.
Reply With Quote
The Following 4 Users Say Thank You to smwlocal24 For This Useful Post:
device (01-06-2012), Guttermonkey (01-16-2012), Seeyou (03-08-2012), striker12300 (02-02-2013)
  #6  
Old 01-04-2012, 07:59 PM
smwlocal24 smwlocal24 is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Dayton, OH
Posts: 76
Thanks: 2
Thanked 30 Times in 17 Posts
Default

After posting the above reply I saw your post about the copper awning you made so I apparently was giving you information you already know.

In my opinion, the old style double lock standing seam hip transition looks tacky and put too much stress on your metal and often will result in a pin hole which would have to completely rely on caulk or solder to prevent a leak. You might be better off pursuading your customer to go with a cleaner looking hip detail. The downside to the cleaner look is the large increase in shop time(which I'm sure you're familar with going by how nice that copper awning looks) compared to using preformed panels as done in that link above for Custom Sheet Metal Roofing.
Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to smwlocal24 For This Useful Post:
ifishalot7 (01-06-2012)
  #7  
Old 01-06-2012, 06:46 AM
ifishalot7 ifishalot7 is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 27
Thanks: 18
Thanked 20 Times in 12 Posts
Default

Thanks for posting the pitures of the bay windows and your work is exceptional.The two that I have to do will be very much the same with the sides angled out.The home owner wanted the panels to be narrow in width but if I can configure the seams the way you did on yours then the issue with the seams running into the hip is taken out if play.I will post some pictures of how they turn out later on.
"I want to go fishing but work keeps getting in the way"
Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to ifishalot7 For This Useful Post:
smwlocal24 (01-06-2012)
  #8  
Old 01-11-2012, 05:04 AM
roofermarc roofermarc is offline
Professional Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: St.Tammany Parish
Posts: 449
Thanks: 36
Thanked 82 Times in 71 Posts
Default Bay window

Here's a couple of hoods we've done in the past, haven't done one in quite sometime. Somebody went back and told the home owner he had to step flash the one in pic 3, I don't step flash these, adds too much of a contrast.
Attached Thumbnails
DSCN0104.jpg   DSCN0105.jpg   DSCN0107.jpg   DSCN0110.jpg  
Reply With Quote
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to roofermarc For This Useful Post:
Bud (01-12-2012), Guttermonkey (01-16-2012)
  #9  
Old 01-11-2012, 08:59 PM
cactassdupree cactassdupree is offline
Professional Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Sunny Florida
Posts: 602
Thanks: 161
Thanked 58 Times in 49 Posts
Wink Pic #3

Quote:
Originally Posted by roofermarc View Post
Here's a couple of hoods we've done in the past, haven't done one in quite sometime. Somebody went back and told the home owner he had to step flash the one in pic 3, I don't step flash these, adds too much of a contrast.
Hi Marc, After looking at he step flashing I thought it looked a bit large for the roof. Guady maybe a better word. Question, How had you finished it against the wall if you remember? I can't rememberhalf the shizz I've done!! dupree
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 01-12-2012, 05:46 AM
roofermarc roofermarc is offline
Professional Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: St.Tammany Parish
Posts: 449
Thanks: 36
Thanked 82 Times in 71 Posts
Default Steps flashing

Quote:
Originally Posted by cactassdupree View Post
Hi Marc, After looking at he step flashing I thought it looked a bit large for the roof. Guady maybe a better word. Question, How had you finished it against the wall if you remember? I can't rememberhalf the shizz I've done!! dupree
Drive anchor the flange's to the wall with np-1 between the brick and flange, then a curved pc. with hems, is placed over the sides and riveted with more caulking in between. Now the top counter, I cut it into the mortar joint. Yeah the flashing in the mortar joints is safer, but I think too much of a contrast.
Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to roofermarc For This Useful Post:
cactassdupree (01-14-2012)
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


 

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 10:09 AM.


Powered by vBulletin®
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.