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  #21  
Old 03-16-2012, 05:42 PM
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Rob Rob is offline
 
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Default Agree to disagree

[QUOTEI Hope you all the best. and will leave it at that. dupree[/QUOTE]

Thank you.
But, you've got me pegged wrong.
I'm an advocate of quality tradesmanship regardless of background.
I've seen many outstanding craftsmen who have had no formal training.
I've also seen people with a high level of education that can't be taught how to turn a screwdriver.
Again, saying someone is a superior tradesman because he or she does or doesn't belong to a union is hogwash.
Over and out.
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  #22  
Old 01-15-2015, 01:41 PM
cactassdupree cactassdupree is offline
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Default Yikes

Quote:
Originally Posted by roofermarc View Post
These roofs are hollow, there not framed.
What if down the road Someone who doesn't know they are hollow is up there trying to clean the windows and put a little weight (not even walk all over them. You'd have some splainnin to do! I've seen Radius Dormer Louvers on some houses that a roofer or A/C guy has used them to set a tool box or a butt and end up with a nice dent. Those vents can be pushed out from the attic if you can get to them. Those copper roofs over the Bay Windows ought to have a sound backing. Just my 2 cents. dupree
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  #23  
Old 01-30-2015, 04:15 AM
Kurtis Kurtis is offline
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why is the top and the valley soldered?

sad
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  #24  
Old 03-29-2015, 06:13 AM
red_cedar red_cedar is offline
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You might try using soft copper to form caps.
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  #25  
Old 07-05-2016, 06:55 AM
artguymark60 artguymark60 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roofermarc View Post
I wonder who ever came up with this style of hood roof. If I get my distance up and distance out, scribe a radius or curve, step off the curve in equal distances, draw a 22 1/2 % line and plot the points onto the s/o, I'm left with my pattern that is narrower at the top and wider at the bottom. The technique displayed here had to be done to skip the layout process. Not trying to bad mouth anybody's work, but I just don't think its right. Here,s another pic of what I'm talking about. To the untrained eye it would go unnoticed.
I would go to the job, site measure the bay, bow or box window nailer (2x8 framing cap) and get accurate angle degrees to the wall. Elevation and design were agreed upon with client. Then I'd take my measurements to the shop, draft a 1" to 1' scale parallel line development on paper choosing always a 9' radius for the concave pans. The 9'radius seemed the most graceful. Using my architect scale, I'd develop my patterns on to the metal, form the pieces in the shop and assemble it on a jig. Basically, in the field I'd place it atop the window after installing a continuous cleat under a 1.5 to 2 inch edge.
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  #26  
Old 07-05-2016, 07:24 AM
artguymark60 artguymark60 is offline
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Regarding a properly decked bay window:many times the GC or homeowner doesn't want to go to the extra expense to construct a secure substrate. As a tinnmen it is always a joy to do a full blown double standing seam cover over a bay window.
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  #27  
Old 07-20-2016, 10:48 AM
roofermarc roofermarc is offline
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Default framed hood

Ive never done a hood over a framed substrate, they just don't go the extra mile down here to do that. If I did do one I think the hood would be laid out loosely fitting and larger to allow for the out-of-squareness that one would encounter. I install the front in one piece with the panels folded to lock over the drip, then install the sides forming the lock on the job. These are really hard to do using 24 ga painted and I refuse to do them anymore. Only if there straight not with a sweep, do I use painted metal on them now.
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