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  #11  
Old 12-18-2016, 10:04 PM
tinstructor tinstructor is offline
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Default wire edger with pic of double seam and wire edge

wire edger and pic of wire edge on copper pitcher with double seam also.
I buffed the patina off of this copper pitcher that i made several years ago,so you could see the double seam btm.edge and the wire edge top. I also have another method to show you that you may not be aware of for the double seam that can produce nearly flawless results. Ask me about that when you like.
Cheers,Tinstructor
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  #12  
Old 12-18-2016, 10:33 PM
bvaks bvaks is offline
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Default doudle seam

thank u very impressive .what beads do u use ? what is the other method
thanks again baruch
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  #13  
Old 12-20-2016, 01:28 AM
bvaks bvaks is offline
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Default double seam

thank u baruch
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  #14  
Old 12-20-2016, 10:31 AM
tinstructor tinstructor is offline
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Default double seam

I think you may like the other method better,especially if you don't have all the required edgers and wheels that it takes to produce the standard double seam.
>Do this: scribe a 1/8 or 3/16 inch line along the bottom side circumference (or the smallest that you can brake past 90 degrees)edge of the flat piece of metal for your round object.
>using a leaf brake,brake it to as far over as you possibly can,then pinch it flat in the brake to create a hem.

>repeat this same thing over 3 or 4 times using the previous inner edge as the line for your next bend.

> the result is an edge made of a stack of 3 or 4 layers thick having the look of a double seam which is nearly flawless.

>now roll it placing the hem/seam in the grooves of the roller,as if it were a round rod, to prevent distortion.

>(if you use a pipe-lock for your vertical seam, let me give you some insights on how to calculate that no matter what size you may desire ,for a custom pipe-lock that is proportionate to the object,no matter how small.
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  #15  
Old 12-25-2016, 10:10 AM
bvaks bvaks is offline
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Default double seam

hi thank u for your answers.i have a regular bead roller machine with few wheels,when i attached
the bottom to the box body by double seam i am doing 3 steps i fold the bottom on the box flange then i am using anvil to make 45 degrees and then fold it more to attaced it to the box body.the last step is a problematic one
by doing it by anvil the results are not nice i tried to do it by bead roller using flat wheels but it is very slow.is your machine (the 3 rd picture)is for this purpose or there is an alternative

the last other method u have describes it is done to the bottom (if i understand) how it attached to the box body

thank u very much baruch
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  #16  
Old 12-26-2016, 08:58 AM
tinstructor tinstructor is offline
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I strongly suggest that you use the alternative method ! When using this other method you just have a 1/4" 90 deg. bend all around the bottom piece,wether it is round or square.An Easy - Edger works perfectly for this. The bottom then fits recessed slightly into the object and then is usually soldered in place.
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  #17  
Old 12-26-2016, 10:12 AM
Augiemax Augiemax is offline
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maybe this can help. I have this really old book by the AUDELS company that has old info.The book is called
Audels sheet metal workers handy book for pattern layout men .
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  #18  
Old 12-27-2016, 04:11 AM
bvaks bvaks is offline
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Default double seam

hi thank u the book looks very good i will try to get it

your information is excellent i have regular bead roller and the setting down
step i do by anvil and hammer and it is OK my problem is the last stage the double seam if i make it by hammer and anvil it is not nice.i tried to use 2 flat wheels on my bead roller ,however it is very slow and it is also not nice.what u recommend thanks a lot baruch
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  #19  
Old 12-27-2016, 08:47 AM
tinstructor tinstructor is offline
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What material are you using ? Galvanized or copper ? Also,are you soldering the bottom after it is finished ?
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  #20  
Old 12-27-2016, 09:29 AM
bvaks bvaks is offline
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Default double seam

hi galvanized metal 0.5 mm. i am not soldering the bottom thanks
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