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  #1  
Old 07-29-2006, 07:18 PM
mikebonne mikebonne is offline
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Default grinding and sanding stainless steel without warping.

Nobody in our shop can perform welded joint grinding out in the middle of big areas without total ruin of the piece from expansion. Can you grind under a stream of water or something? And does the old fire and ice trick ( to repair warped areas) work with SS as well as it does in non-ferrous? Help me look cool in front of my new boss and the "Old Timers"!...thanks!
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Old 07-30-2006, 05:50 PM
bordontn bordontn is offline
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Mike........talk to Bruce at Dixie in Ft. Myers ..He used to build and install
stainless hoods..
bordontn
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Old 07-30-2006, 07:24 PM
steve2 steve2 is offline
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Mike, what is the old fire and ice trick?
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Old 07-30-2006, 08:14 PM
mikebonne mikebonne is offline
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Hey bordentn...unfortunately I am too new to the particular politics of Ft Meyers to go to another shop for help...Bruce would probably be great, but I wouldn't feel comfortable about it, yet..maybe in a month or so when I get the lay of the land around here so to speak! Thanks for now...
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Old 07-30-2006, 08:23 PM
mikebonne mikebonne is offline
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Hey Steve, When you have the metal expand from heat (or I suppose for any reason), you can snap the "bubble" back by shrinking the metal with fire and ice. Say this pop-up or bubble is as big as your hand. Direct a torch on an area the size of a quarter at some point on the bubble. When it is very hot, as hot as you think it can be without damaging it, Take a handful of ice cubes gripped in a rag and slap it directly on the hot spot. (Beware of steam burns) Ice must touch metal, not rag. Repeat as many times around the bubble as needed. This I have done on copper with perfect results, I have SEEN it done on plain steel, but I wondered if anybody had tried it on stainless? I reckon I'll get a peice of scrap after work and just try it....
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Old 02-17-2007, 04:53 PM
device device is offline
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some time ago i posted a picture of the hoods i used to build for residential application..i dont see that website anymore..
but now i am in the business of building them for commercial and industrial applications..
..
the problem with making seam in say counter tops or just joining to flat sheets of stainless without
causing ripples of bubbles or other imperfection is apperant..
when you are joining sheet at a width os say 2 feet..
start the tack weld from the backside..(good face down)
start the one edge with the seam tight and the other side gapped say 1/4 inch as you begin to tack the material together along the seam it will pull together making it tighter..
if you start with the material tight together on both ends you end up with it bubbling and being to tight..
by tthe time you reach the end of the seam it should be tight..
now..take a bodyhammer and tap(key work tap lightly) the two side of the seam so they are flush..
smooth if you run your finger across it..
no before i do anything else i make sure i have my chill bars..
one 6X1/2" aluminum flat bar longer than the seam i am welding..
and two 2X2" by 1/4 "alum angle..
the flatbar i layout on the table..i then flip the seam so tacke are down..
then clamp the alum angle on iether side of the seam..leaving just enough room for the tig torch to pass through..
once everything is clamped down i weld..one pass no stopping ..even speed..
then un clamp the angles..and let cool
then with my variable speed grinder 5" i use 50 grit blendex pad and leightly scuff the seam running parralel with the grain ..i do this to find the low spots..
once i located the low spoets i circle them with a black sharpe marker and then flip the seam face down(keeping in mind where the low spots were on the good side..
then with the pick end of my bady hammer i tap the low spot towards the good side..right along the seam..
then i flip it over..
then i switch to a 80 grit and lay in the grain..and see if i got to low spots out..
repeat if nessesary..remember and time you grind you are heating it..light grinding even and one direction never back and forth..
always tap the material forward from the back..never from the front back..
and never try to grin into your weld and dig it out so to speak..tap it ahead from the back..
a dug out weld can not be grained prperly ..
hope this helps..anyone got anymore questions feel free devicedriver@hotmail.com
sorry if this post is long dead i just found it..
cheers
p
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Old 02-17-2007, 05:00 PM
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Bud Bud is offline
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Welcome back Device - Thanks for info.

As for the pictures, they were probably once in our gallery. We had to shut it down about a year os so ago because of security holes
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Old 02-20-2007, 11:50 PM
device device is offline
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ehy thanks Bud
it has been a few years..
anyone have tips about building copper sinks?
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Old 02-23-2007, 08:40 PM
bigt bigt is offline
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Device, thanks for the info. I do alot of custom stainless work and just completed my first counter top with welded in sink and welded backsplash. With all the cool "latest thing offa my bench" posts i've wanted post my own, but work has me very tied up. All the info I can get on stainless work is appriciated. 95% of my work is custom all types of metals. This site is great because trial and error is time consuming and expensive.
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Old 08-20-2007, 12:39 PM
BARNHART-STUDIOS BARNHART-STUDIOS is offline
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Does anyone solder stainless any more...it seems that the less heat you use the better it would be for the warping?
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