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  #1  
Old 05-18-2011, 01:12 PM
sharpscriber sharpscriber is offline
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Default Fiber cement boards and sheet metal contact

Greetings all; I want to re-side my home with Hardie board, a fiber cement product that is portland cement and cellulose and other ingredients and you have to use sheet metal flashing, Z flash, T-shaped or channel configurations at all the edges and joints. Does anyone have knowledge or tips for installation other than what is listed on the James Hardie website? I have never worked with this stuff.
I am concerned that metal contact with this product will erode most metals as you cannot use steel nails, just galvanized but it is recommended to use stainless steel nails which I will get. I have painted aluminum .032 which I want to use to fabricate flashing with. If I fabricate some H-channel for the vertical seams between panels I won't be able to remove it without difficulty if it ever needs.
Can't use stainless because it's not in my budget and can't paint it well enough without too much prep and maintenance touch ups. Or is there another way to flash the vertical seams so I can remove and replace it easily without taking off all the sheets? Also anyone know the best way to cut it without a circular saw or power tool? I heard of double cuts but ones made for this product, not sheet metal double cuts, too small a bite.
Shopping now also to find the best prices for fiber cement products. Thanks for any help with anything you can advise me with.
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Old 05-18-2011, 02:13 PM
ATS74 ATS74 is offline
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I used it on my new house. I would buy the shears to cut it. I used a circular saw and it is bad dusty. To hang it blind nail it with a coil siding or coil roofing gun. Vinyl coated aluminum would work fine for flashing. I would use Azek for the trim as it mills like wood. I'm not Tom Silva but I would answer any questions I could. Good Luck Scribe.
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Old 05-18-2011, 02:20 PM
ATS74 ATS74 is offline
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I just realized you are using panels and I used lap and that is why I said blind nail it. I like the board and batten look with the panels and you can buy both prefinished in a lot of colors.
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Old 05-18-2011, 02:41 PM
sharpscriber sharpscriber is offline
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Thanks ATS74. Although about 25% more expensive than 4 x 8 panels and more pieces to install I do prefer the horizontal boards for their looks. I don't really know how the joints would look with any kind of battens or H channel over every 4 ft. seam anyway. You would also see the nails in the panels vs. blinds in the boards.
Maybe I should spring for the lap siding stuff. At least I can use my coil roofer gun or siding gun but I can't find stainless nails for them. Bostich for the roofer and I think Hatachi or Senco siding spitter.
What about the lap board butt seams? Does caulking hold up over the years? This stuff has a 50 year life span and caulking would have to be checked every couple of years I would think. Maybe I can find a good price on the boards. They come in 8.25" which gives 7" coverage. Does anyone make a wider board? Glad you can nail it without pre drilling unlike stainless hammered nails you have to or I hear they will bend. Wonder if it is good idea to get sealant around the nails on lap boards? And no one screws them, wonder why other than the cost of the screws. I only have two cases of roofing nails but they are just coated steel. Wonder also if they would deteriorate being used with the cement boards?
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Old 05-18-2011, 03:02 PM
ATS74 ATS74 is offline
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I used a 5 inch reveal and at the time had no coil gun so I hand nailed with hot dipped 6d commons. Mine has been on for about 4 years with no fastener problems. Unless I lived on the coast I would use electroplated galvanized coil nails for holding power and ease of nailing. I left a slight gap at my corner boards and butt joints and caulked. As I was installing I used a small piece of Tyvek over the butt joint that would be covered by the next run. You should look in to prefinished it worked great for me.
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Old 05-19-2011, 02:50 AM
sharpscriber sharpscriber is offline
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Well I'm sold on the boards instead of the panels because I think now that fasteners and flashing would not be too keen on the eye as blind nailing. And I will see if I can get the finished color as I see that it is UV resistant. This way I won't have to worry about any metal contact as I will only use it on the bottom and top runs and make some for the outside corners and window/door flash. Costs more but worth it.

Thanks ATS74 for sharing and helping me learn from your experience. Gotta hunt down that roofing nailer now.
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Old 06-02-2011, 05:45 AM
roofermarc roofermarc is offline
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Default nailing blind

Quote:
Originally Posted by sharpscriber View Post
Well I'm sold on the boards instead of the panels because I think now that fasteners and flashing would not be too keen on the eye as blind nailing. And I will see if I can get the finished color as I see that it is UV resistant. This way I won't have to worry about any metal contact as I will only use it on the bottom and top runs and make some for the outside corners and window/door flash. Costs more but worth it.

Thanks ATS74 for sharing and helping me learn from your experience. Gotta hunt down that roofing nailer now.
All hardy board products I see are face nailed, I thought correct? Are with the lapped siding its blind nailed? I remember when this stuff came out it took over the industry and vinly siding guys had too pick up on it.
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Old 06-02-2011, 06:17 AM
sharpscriber sharpscriber is offline
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Hardiboard is face nailed with either caulked or flashed 'H' channel joints and Hardiplank is blind nailed best but many people face nail it especially in tornado alley.

Got some great deals on stainless screws and stuff. Starting on the trim pieces now. I'm blind screwing mine because it ain't going anywhere that the roof and windows doesn't go with it.
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